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”STOP RING”
Silver with Lemonquarts and Tahiti Pearl.
“HEART RING” in silver and
“HEART RING with a SHIMMER”,
red gold and diamonds.
Photo Justin Hummerston.
“HEART RING” in gold with
green and white diamonds.
“SOFT RED HEART RING”.
Photo Justin Hummerston.
“The Play Ring”, 12 gold rings with diamonds. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
The chain of rings, folded in over the finger, is forever changing because the little diamond dots are constantly moving – when you move. The Play Ring is made with either 9 or 12 rings and of either red or yellow gold. The first one was created in 1995 and in 2006 the Danish Art Foundation bought one in red and yellow gold with white and yellow diamonds for the foundation’s Jewellery Box.
“The Swaying Play Ring”, 9 gold rings with diamonds.
The Play Ring is most suitable for wearing on the middle finger, partly because that places the ring in the centre of the hand and partly because it’s the longest joint on the hand and thus makes room for the ring to make its moves, so that the little diamond dots change position when you do.
“Play Ring with Droplets”, gold ring and in-between ring with a pearl.
The Play Ring gets a different expression by adding an in-between ring to the equation. It’s a simple gold ring with an emerald, a ruby or maybe a yellow diamond. Thus you have to decide if you want to meet the world with the red or maybe the green colour – port or starboard.
“Bend Ring”, bent gold ring with diamond and emerald. Photo: Erling Irving.
The Bend Ring is very flattering for hands with not-so-long fingers. Most of us dream of having really long fingers! But if you haven’t you can help nature a little bit – like avoiding diagonal stripes if you’re a little round around the waist. The finger, obviously, does not get any longer by wearing a bent ring – it just looks like it because the shape of the ring lays upon the hand and makes the finger seem longer. The Bend Ring on this picture is for the right hand and is made in a mirrored version for the left hand – just like gloves or shoes.
“Bend Ring”, gold ring with diamonds.
The yellow ring for the left hand is quite heavy set, almost like fencing wire. It will find a large hand to live on.
The Bend Ring is available in yellow or red gold – matte or shining.
“Bend Ring”, gold ring with diamonds.
This Bend Ring is set with a row of small diamonds. The larger the diamonds, the heavier the ring will seem. A heavy ring often looks great on a large hand.
“Bend Ring”, gold ring with Australian boulder opal and diamond.
A special treasure trove exists for the jeweller to dive into at any given time. The task for the jeweller is to comply with the wonders of nature, thus giving top priority to the stone. This version of a stone ring is my favourite, because the stone seems to float in the golden curve of the ring, individually fit to match this particular stone.
“Double Ring”, red gold and emeralds. Photo: Erling Irving.
The Double Ring is related to The Bend Ring, only it encircles the finger twice. The soft bend is slightly raised from the hand and allows one a peek between ring and hand.
“Oval with a Line”, gold and diamonds.
Oval with a Line is akin to the previous picture of the Double Ring. Both rings are light and follow the lines of the hand. Both the Double Ring and Oval with a Line were made especially for respectively the right or the left hand.
“Oval with a Line”, matte black silver ring lined with gold.
One of the lovely aspects of creating jewellery is to make decisions about the distinct differences in character between the materials, like here, where I’ve chosen matte black silver and yellow gold, compared to Oval with a Line with the diamonds above.
“Fish Ring”, gold and diamond. Photo: Chr. Lotzbeck.
Fish are loaded with symbolism. The shape of the fish seems easy enough to render, but it’s also a creature that keeps growing throughout its life. In my universe both factors relate to the child inside us – faith and growth. The Fish Ring has a long tail, which nestles between the ring finger and the little finger. Thus, the diamond in the ring is always visible to you.
“Smiling Ring”, red gold, partially black, diamonds.
I wonder whether the first Smiling Ring was made in 1980 or 1981? It is a ring, which it is wonderful to make, because each is entirely different from the next in the way they bend. The bigger the difference between the width between the ring’s layers, the lighter the mood, the bigger the smile of the ring. The ring is always matte black inside, which emphasizes the impression of light and shadow.
“Smiling Ring”, silver ring with rough diamond.
In 2008 the Smiling Ring was enlarged and translated to use on the index finger with a raw diamond. It is quite marvellous really, that the craftsperson who mounted the stone, did it in such a way that you can actually look in through the little window, made by the cutter, when he decided what this particular raw diamond was suited for.
“Rocking Ring”, gold ring with diamond.
“Open Eternity”, matte black gold and diamonds. Photo: Erling Irving.
When thinking about a new gold or silver ring in classic terms, we often visualize it as made of some shiny metal. When you start wearing a ring, it inevitably gets scratches, which in time becomes the ring’s patina. You might even think less highly of the ring for that. If, on the other hand, you become the owner of a “veiled” matte gold ring, something entirely different will happen. The surface of Open Eternity is silver-plated and oxidized, so that the ring presents itself with a shining, silver surface, which with wear and tear slowly turns to gold: The more you wear your ring, the more precious it becomes. The ring’s surface changes over time from matte black to a shining gold ring, only matte where it’s not worn.
“Ring in Use”, matte black gold and diamonds. Photo: Erling Irving.
The top ring is a new matte black gold ring and the bottom is the exact same ring, only it’s been worn for 10 years. The Danish Art Foundation acquired the first used "Ring in Use", and in 2006 they incorporated it in the foundation’s Jewellery Box.
“Stone with Legs”, matte black solitaire ring in gold. Photo: Erling Irving.
You can ask yourself if it’s OK to veil the precious metal. But maybe there’s a thrill in unveiling it? Or maybe you’d rather own a shining ring and have it patinated slowly by time? Well, I guess I could shine it right now, so it presents itself in all its glittering glory! It is merely a question of either wanting your ring to become more beautiful with time, or to gain patina the way it’s always been done!
“Black Dancer”, Amphora ring, matte black silver and gold teaser ring. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
In my universe Amphora is the term for a special set of mostly rings, but also necklaces and brooches – all of which are inspired by the classical Greek vase. I first got the idea in early 2004, and new Amphora rings surfaced throughout the year. The basic idea is inspired by the Greek jar, which was originally used for storing oil or wine. A woman probably created the jar more than 2000 years ago. She and I stand together in awe of the original source of inspiration: the female body. I admire her for the fundamental research in shapes and forms, which resulted in the classic silhouette, which has generously floated down through the centuries and into my modern mind.
“Red Dancer”, gold ring with plum coloured diamond. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
The titles for the Dancers came to me when Dorte Krogh was photographing the Amphora rings for my Winter Letter 2004. During the shoot it became clear exactly what I had created. Through Dorte Krogh’s lense I could see that this particular Amphora Ring was a woman, pirouetting on a dance floor. (My Winter Letters are published yearly and are my artistic end-of-year reflections).
“Yellow Dancer”, gold ring/necklace.
Dancing is a global way of communication, understood by all, white, black, red or yellow. It’s the same with my Dancers. Whether a Dancer is yellow, red, white or black has only to do with the colour of the precious metal. The rings are twisted to fit either the right or the left hand, so they bend harmoniously to follow the lines of the hand. An interesting phenomenon with the Dancers is, that if you turn them 60 degrees, any idea of a ring for the finger vanishes. You suspend it from a chain and it has become a pendant.
“Dancing with the Stars”, gold ring with diamonds. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
This Dancer can be used both as a ring and as a pendant. The shape is twisted to fit either the right or the left hand, depending on whether you’re left- or right handed. Now the choice remains between wearing it as a pendant or on your finger.
“Dotted Dancer”, black gold ring with diamonds.
Dotted Dancer can be used both as a pendant and a ring. You can choose whether you want to wear it on a gold or a silver chain – or maybe both? The shape of the ring is twisted so it fits comfortably on the right or left hand, depending on whether you’re left- or right handed.
“Lovers”, two bright silver rings. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
I feel lucky to be able to call myself an artist, because it gives me the joy of naming my jewellery. When a piece is created, it arises from a thought or a shape. It is often from there I gather the title. But some times a title comes from the outside, as it happened with the silver rings Lovers. This title came to me while Dorte Krogh was shooting the pictures for the Amphora Winter letter 2004. She saw the two silver rings in a way that instantly made me think of two lovers, following each other. (My Winter Letters are published yearly and are my artistic end-of-year reflections).
“Lovers” a matte silver ring and a shining gold ring with a navette diamond. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
Lovers are pairs of Amphora rings. Each ring has an “angled” shape, and they lean slightly towards each other, so that the shape of the ring bends slightly backwards on the hand. It can, as shown, be two dissimilar rings, but they could just as well be similar. You can choose to wear both rings on the same day, or decide to wear just one.
“Lovers”, two matte black silver rings and an in-between ring in gold with a Mexican fire opal. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
The Amphora rings can be turned around as shown here. Between the rings you can put a third, delicate band with, let’s say, a Mexican fire opal. Or it could be a small band with an amethyst, pearl or maybe a diamond. To turn your rings around and make them flexible to fit your mood means that you, instead of believing in the old saying: “It’s now or never”, make your own decisions and say: “Now and forever”.
“The Drop”, red gold and tahiti pearl.
Among the magnificent pearls that have passed through my fingers lately, this black-green Tahiti pearl inspired me to the ring “The Drop” in March 2008.
“Springy Ring”, red gold two diamonds.
Can be worn together with separate emerald ring.
“Red Amphora and Nodding Solitaire”,
“Pearl Ring”, gold and tahiti pears.
“Running ring”, gold and pearls. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
I didn’t invent the two-finger ring! I saw the first two-finger ring when I was a teenager and I wanted it in a way that only a teenager can want something. Since then I’ve seen both two- and three-finger rings made by some of my colleagues, and I’ve also made rings myself that covered several fingers – hand jewellery – you could call them. But towards the end of 2006, a new idea saw the light of day. An idea featuring pearls, usually a rare guest in my studio. Running Ring won a prize in the 2007 competition “Scandinavian Tahiti Pearl”.
“Running Ring”, a little forest of two-finger rings in gold with pearls and diamonds.
Once I started working with pearls and ran them between my fingers, I have to admit that they took a hold on me! – To think that pearls can have that many colours: pale blue, green, golden-yellow, dark coppery – and white obviously!
Tekst indsættes her
“No. 3”, red Greenlandic gold, white and green diamonds. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
No. 3 with white and green diamonds contsains three rings. One ring with white stones, one ring with green and one with both white and green.
“No. 3”, red Greenlandic gold, white and green diamonds. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
The ring can be worn i three different ways. So you get three different rings.
“Round No. 3”, gold, white and yellow diamonds. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
“Round No. 3”, black matted silver and enamel. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
“The Toucan”, winged ring in silver with black underbelly.
When a ring has wings, what it means to me is, that it spreads over more than one finger. But it also means that the shape of the ring makes you think of birds. The inspiration could come from the birds in my garden, but they could also come from the birds I meet along the way to my studio in Lyngby. A common denominator for the Wing Rings is that the idea came from the little sanctuaries of time that I spend out in the open. It’s a solace to the soul to go for a walk and let your thoughts wander aimlessly.
“The Bullfinch”, rose gold ring with plum coloured diamond. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
The bullfinch is a most noticeable bird in winter, when it sits there in the apple tree and brightens up the day with its red chest. With the Bullfinch I’ve recreated not only the beautiful red chest of the male, but also its silhouette.
“Long-tailed Tit”, silver ring, belongs to Koldinghus Museum. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
The Long-tailed Tit is meant for the middle finger and its long tail stretches over across the ring finger. In the book by Lise Funder “Dansk Smykkekunst 1960-2000” (Danish Jewellery 1960-2000) Dorte Krogh’s photograph of the Long-tailed Tit can be seen. That led the Jewellery Museum The Ring in Grenå (1996-2001) to choose this particular silhouette as its emblem.
“PI”, rose gold ring with white and one plum coloured diamond. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
PI is meant for the left hand. Here the upper part will seem to float above the hand. In a quiet moment the wearer can enjoy the little row of white diamonds, partly hidden between the ring finger and the little finger.
“Elf Rings”, manipulated photograph of the silver ring PI.
Technology offers marvellous opportunities for adding extra layers of ambience to jewellery photography. Here it’s the picture of the silver ring PI in a fairy tale setting. The silver ring itself is meant for the middle finger, stretching its tail over the ring finger.
“Rainbows in the Night”, gold ring, partially black, with straw-coloured diamond. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
Rainbows in the Night has, beyond its wings, yet another association to birds, as the shape between the two layers looks like a seagull in flight. The most interesting thing about the ring is probably the way the light is reflected by the stone. It’s a thought that’s been maturing in the back of my head for a long time, waiting for the right scene to present itself, so that others could experience the wonder that I myself experienced in 1985. For years I’ve been wondering how strange it is that there’s a sea of light under all diamonds – only nobody had ever created the possibility for it to show itself. Only in year 2000 I successfully incorporated the idea in a ring, which tells where the rainbow ends.
“Rainbows in the Night”, detail, Winged Ring, gold and part black gold and diamond. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
In 1985 I had two exhibitions in New York. The second time I took a Yellow Cab to get to the opening on Madison Avenue. I had a lovely feeling inside of happiness and luck. Suddenly I glanced at the car door, where I saw a totally clear rainbow. It was the sun, which reflected by the stone in my ring, brought on this spectacular sight. The experience made me consider how I could make this happen in my jewellery. The brilliance of the stone can only be seen because the light is reflected in it. But light that is not reflected through the mirror of the stone, goes right through it. In the Winged Ring I’ve created a double layer, so that the sunlight that goes through the diamond can be seen in “the night” under the stone, where it reveals itself in the colours of the rainbow.
”Two Rectangles”, masculine silver ring. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
As a female artist it’s particularly interesting to make jewellery for men. Images from childhood classrooms have crossed my mind: The boys drew people with square bodies the girls drew them round. That has led to a square masculine ring, which, I’m pleased to say, is silky soft inside.
“Two Rectangles”, masculine gold ring.
Whether “Two Rectangles” is made in gold or silver doesn’t change its appearance very much. It’s more a matter of taste, whether you like the white, poetic silver or the legendary, warm gold.
“Clergyman’s Ring”, matte black silver ring with gold cross. Photo: Dorte Krogh.
The basic principles of the “Clergyman’s Ring” were already in place in the Seventies, when I started working with lamellae set closely together. Quite a few of my earliest rings looked like that. In the “Clergyman’s Ring” from 2003 I added a highly polished gold cross, which gives the ring an almost solemn look.
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